env_ref — a reference to an operator environment variable, for a recipe.
A config declares a reference with zap.env('NAME'). A recipe is a pure function
with no builder in hand, so it calls env_ref('NAME') for the same thing: the
two return the same string, and a recipe's result drops into a config's resource
as the config's own reference would.
The string is a marker — the variable's name between two Unicode noncharacters,
behind a fixed mixed-case prefix. The config's builder converts every marked
string to a typed reference before the engine reads the config, and the engine
resolves it from the operator's environment when the value is used. Until then
the string is opaque: it can be interpolated into a template literal or
concatenated, and nothing else. A marker that was sliced, split, case-changed,
or encoded no longer reads as a reference: the config fails to evaluate when
part of the marker survives, and otherwise the result is ordinary text. It
never names another variable.